How to Cut and Drill Acrylic Sheet
Acrylic sheet—often referred to by the brand name Perspex®—is lightweight, durable and versatile. However, using the wrong tools or applying too much pressure can cause it to chip, crack or melt.
This beginner-friendly guide explains how to cut, drill and finish standard acrylic sheet safely and achieve a cleaner result.
Please note: This guide is intended for standard acrylic sheet. Acrylic mirror, HIPS mirror, polycarbonate and coated materials may require different tools and techniques.
Safety Comes First
Before beginning:
- Wear safety glasses to protect against chips and acrylic swarf.
- Use suitable dust extraction or work in a well-ventilated area.
- Wear a suitable dust mask when sanding or creating fine dust.
- Wear hearing protection when using powered cutting tools.
- Clamp and support the sheet securely before cutting or drilling.
- Follow the safety instructions supplied with your tools.
Gloves can protect your hands while carrying acrylic and handling freshly cut edges. However, do not wear loose-fitting gloves near rotating drills, routers or saw blades, as they can become caught in moving machinery.
If you are not confident using a power tool safely, ask an experienced person or professional fabricator for assistance.
Before You Begin
Keep the protective masking on both sides of the acrylic while cutting, drilling and handling it. This helps prevent scratches and gives you a surface on which to mark your measurements.
Measure carefully and mark the cutting line using a pencil or non-permanent marker. Always test your chosen method on a spare piece first, particularly when using coloured, matt or specialist acrylic.
Cutting Acrylic by Hand
Score and Snap
Scoring and snapping can be used for straight cuts in thinner acrylic sheet, including many 3mm sheets.
- Place the sheet on a flat, stable surface.
- Position a metal straightedge along the cutting line.
- Draw an acrylic scoring tool firmly along the line several times.
- Continue until you have created a deep, consistent groove.
- Position the scored line directly over the edge of a solid bench.
- Hold the supported side securely and apply firm, even pressure to the overhanging section.
The acrylic should break along the scored line. Results can vary between cast and extruded acrylic, so practise on a spare piece before cutting your final panel.
Use an acrylic scoring tool wherever possible. Standard craft and utility knives can slip and may not create a sufficiently deep groove.
Cutting Acrylic With a Jigsaw
A jigsaw is useful for curves, cut-outs and irregular shapes.
- Select a fine-tooth blade designed for acrylic or plastics.
- Support the sheet on both sides of the cutting line.
- Clamp it securely to reduce vibration.
- Use a moderate speed and a smooth, consistent feed.
- Allow the blade to cut without forcing it forwards.
- Pause if the edge begins to soften or melt.
- Avoid stopping in one position while the blade is moving.
A coarse blade may chip the acrylic, while excessive speed or an overly slow feed can generate enough heat to melt it.
Using a Circular Saw or Table Saw
A circular saw or table saw is generally better for long, straight cuts and larger quantities.
- Use a sharp, fine-tooth carbide-tipped blade suitable for plastics.
- Ensure the blade is correctly fitted and rotating in the intended direction.
- Support the entire sheet to prevent vibration or movement.
- Feed the acrylic smoothly and consistently.
- Do not force the sheet through the blade.
- Avoid feeding it so slowly that the acrylic begins to melt.
Blade requirements vary according to the saw’s diameter, speed and manufacturer. Follow the blade and tool manufacturer’s recommendations rather than relying on tooth count alone.
How to Drill Acrylic Sheet
Acrylic can crack if the drill bit grabs the material or too much pressure is applied.
Choose the Correct Drill Bit
A specialist acrylic or plastic drill bit is the safest choice. A step drill can also work well for gradually producing clean holes in thinner sheets.
Standard metal drill bits may grab as they break through the reverse of the acrylic. If you plan to modify a drill bit’s cutting angle, this should only be done by someone experienced in tool preparation.
Drilling Instructions
- Keep the protective film in place.
- Mark the centre of the hole accurately.
- Place a flat piece of scrap wood or MDF underneath the acrylic.
- Clamp the acrylic and backing board securely.
- Ensure the drill is set to its standard rotary setting—never use hammer mode.
- Hold the drill perpendicular to the sheet.
- Begin at a slow or moderate speed using light pressure.
- Allow the drill bit to cut rather than forcing it through.
- Regularly withdraw the bit to clear swarf and release heat.
- Reduce the pressure as the bit approaches the backing board.
Avoid drilling too close to an unsupported edge, as this increases the risk of cracking.
Larger Holes
For larger holes, use a step drill or a hole saw specifically suitable for plastics. Support the sheet fully and practise on an offcut first.
Fixing Through Acrylic
If screws or bolts will pass through the acrylic:
- Make the hole slightly larger than the fixing.
- Use suitable washers where appropriate.
- Avoid overtightening the fixing.
- Allow room for natural expansion and contraction.
Excessive pressure around the hole can cause cracking or stress crazing over time.
Finishing Cut Edges
Saw-cut acrylic edges will usually appear frosted or slightly rough. Several finishing methods are available.
Scraping and Filing
Use a smooth file or specialist edge scraper to remove saw marks and level the edge. Work gently and avoid touching the visible face of the sheet.
Wet Sanding
For a smoother edge:
- Begin with an appropriate fine abrasive, normally around 400 grit.
- Keep the edge and abrasive wet.
- Sand only the cut edge, using even strokes.
- Progress through increasingly finer grades, such as 600, 800 and 1200 grit.
- Finish with a plastic polishing compound if a clearer edge is required.
Starting with an unnecessarily coarse abrasive creates deeper marks and additional work.
Routing
A router fitted with a suitable sharp bit can produce a clean, straight edge. This method is best suited to experienced users who can secure and guide the material safely.
Flame Polishing
Flame polishing can create a clear, glossy edge, but it is an advanced technique and is not recommended for complete beginners.
Incorrect flame polishing can:
- Burn or ignite the acrylic
- Cause bubbling or distortion
- Create internal stress and later cracking
- Damage printed, matt, mirrored or coated surfaces
- Affect areas that will later be glued
For the safest and most consistent finish, use wet sanding and plastic polish or ask a professional fabricator to polish the edge.
Removing the Protective Film
Keep the protective film in place until cutting, drilling and most handling have been completed.
When the project is ready:
- Lift one corner carefully.
- Peel the masking back slowly and evenly.
- Support the sheet as you peel to prevent flexing.
Do not use solvents or a heat gun to remove stubborn film, as these may damage or distort the acrylic. Avoid leaving masked acrylic in direct sunlight or high temperatures for extended periods, as this can make the masking more difficult to remove.
Final Tips for a Cleaner Finish
- Measure twice before making a cut.
- Always test tools and settings on an offcut.
- Keep blades and drill bits sharp.
- Support the material fully.
- Avoid excessive speed, heat and pressure.
- Leave the protective masking on until the final stage.
- Never force a blade or drill through acrylic.
- Stop immediately if the acrylic begins to melt, chatter or crack.
Shop Acrylic Sheet at Rose Acrylics
Explore our range of 3mm acrylic sheets in gloss and matt finishes, available in a wide selection of colours and convenient sizes.
Perfect for craft projects, laser cutting, signage, displays and professional fabrication.